Saturday, October 30, 2010
Mariann Sæther headlines Norway's search-for-more tour on the Krutåga - Norway
All photos courtesy of Benjamin Hjort
There's no question that the secret is out of the bag. Whitewater in northern Norway has always been on the map waiting for the first paddle strokes to arrive. Yet exploration by the foreign crowd has been limited mainly due to the laden creeks and overloaded options in the known southerly regions around Voss and Sjoa. With a few exceptions, stories have been kept on the low by tight lipped Norwegians savouring too many good things up in these parts. In the summer of 2005, Simon Westgarth, Sam Hughes, Rob Coffey and few others headed further into the midnight sun than many had before. After a couple of weeks they returned beaming with great tales for the rest of us.
Northern Norway has it for sure, why not? The mountains follow this amazing country from the south up to its far reaches as sure as the summer sun stays long into the evening. With mountains as far north as 65' latitude, it was only a matter of time before these new paddling zones would be sought after by more foreign eyes.
This past summer, the missions were on in full. Tuomas Vaarala and Mikael Lantto from Finland arrived from the north. Their group hit the Tromsø - Narvik area and shared light on the very good situation around there. Another three groups headed up from the south with the maps in hand. First stop was into Susnadalen, Hattfjelldal, and the classic roadside Krutåga. With us came 3 token Dutchy paddle bums living out of their car, 2 Germans with an inflatable roofrack and of course the veteran lady huckster with her summer home on wheels.
With its headwaters trickling down from across the border in Sweden, the Krutåga is another example of an alpine creek quickly becoming the whitewater potential that keeps Norwegian kayaking legendary. With a late start in the summer sunshine, a few corners of routine ledges soon became high doses of vertical liquid consumption.
Benjamin Hjort leads the charge on the first big slide.
The Krutåga falls down the valley with beautiful rapids on the way down. One of the biggest slides goes off the charts and most likely requires a walk through the open forest around it. After a flat section along the road, the final canyon changes character and produces a few ugly cataracts in between more good lines down until the take out bridge.
Roy Hopmans gets it on in the Nord
Hattfjelldal is a small forested community with the basic services to keep you in the region as long as needed. The big Susna drainage will likely be the next on your radar with multiple paddling sections along its path. Head up the valley to Unkderdal for an amazing beach camp and another paddle option down the easier Unkerdalselva.
Midnight base camp on Unkervatnet
Surprises are many in this region but perhaps the biggest surprise of all was what it wasn't. Getting up to this classic area was hardly a suffer. Hattfjelldal is really considered the middle of the country and from the Sjoa area only requires 600 kms of scenic road. Breaking up the trip with a detour to the Forra just north of Trondheim is also a very good paddling idea. Discoveries still await in the numerous hidden valleys off the beaten track. Northern Norway is sure to become another special part of Europe's best paddling country. Come and get it.
View Krutåga (III - V+) in a larger map
Saturday, October 02, 2010
Perspective. Corey Boux getting his 5th descent of the Stikine Grand Canyon
Photos courtesy of Benjamin Hjort
The Stikine needs no introduction. Easily representing the genuine mental and physical game in North American expedition kayaking, it's one of the greatest river experiences that might ever cross your whitewater path.
Over 25 years have passed since the legendary first attempt of the Stikine Canyon produced the definitive level in which all other rivers would be challenged. Even in the present form, only a handful of paddlers have experienced a perfect combination of whitewater isolation, beauty and adventure.
On August 1 - 3 2010, Corey Boux and Mark Basso headed back into the depths of North America’s biggest whitewater beasts, teaming up with Jamie Wright (UK), Ricky Lambert (NZ), and Benjamin Hjort (NOR)
A hot dry summer and uncharacteristically below average snowpack in northern BC put the Stikine watershed on the low side in what might be the earliest date a group of kayakers have ever attempted the run. Despite having drysuits thought essential to battle such a known hostile environment, our team put on with just over 12000 cfs under blazing heat and summer sunshine.
and so it begins....again.
The first 12 miles compromise some of the most crucial rapids on the river. Entry Falls comes hard and heavy offering us one last chance to change our minds. Soon after, Wicked Wanda, Pass/Fail and the most infamous Wasson’s Hole stack up in succession and committed us for the next 3 days of big volume class V.
Arriving at camp on day 1 unscathed, meant a welcome mental break off the river after some big surfs and close calls in and around the lead in to Pass/Fail.
The next day began with a long portage around Site Zed, the last unrun rapid on the river. The steep scramble along sharp loose rock combined with an important ferry out of the eddy below sets the tone for the second day in the ‘narrows’.
Corey Boux starts day 2 on the rocks during - Site Zed portage 2008
Dozens of big technical moves deep within towering vertical rock walls played at our mental and physical limits relentlessly until the river gods provided the ultimate reward… a seemingly endless whitewater dragon, aptly named ‘The Wall’
The closest you can get to 'The Wall' without being firmly in its grasp.
The serenity of the Garden of the Gods camp is one of the most beautiful campsites one might discover on a paddling expedition anywhere. Still, it could barely ease thoughts of what lay ahead as our team prepared for the final stretch of river remaining on the final day.
Sunrise on Day 3
In the calm of the early morning, the maze of boulders in Garden of the Gods 2 quickly reminded all of us where we were. Heading into one last deep narrow chasm, the final big four rapids making up less than a mile of river dished one final ultimate ride.
Benjamin Hjort - always a force on the water and behind the lens.
In 2002, Idaho legends Conrad Fourney and Damon Miller fired up V- Drive for the 1st time. Located only one short pool below ‘The Hole that ate Chicago’, V-drive is a massive ramp into two even bigger parallel wave holes exploding off of the right wall.
Jamie Wright and his first glance of the great V
For most V-Drive represents the final dagger in the Stikine canyon complex. After here the intimidating walls give way once and for all. If Mr. Willie Kerns quote ‘Nothing has changed but everything is different’ hasn't sunk in yet…. It most certainly will beyond the gates of V-Drive.
58 degrees latitude BC
The paddle out is long yet it won't give you enough time for it all to sink in. Running the Grand Canyon will always mean heading into a liquid monster with intense precision and nerves of steel.
Through the slot and into the new
....one of the greatest feelings in the world.
Special thanks go to Kokatat for their commitment to creating paddling gear that exceed the challenges of expedition paddling around the world. Also a big shout out to Corey Boux and Erik Boomer on getting new record descents of the Stikine Grand Canyon this year. A true feat of whitewater accomplishment.
Winter now blankets Northern BC and the window to one of the finest pieces of whitewater canyons on earth has closed for yet another season. Up near Alaska where the wild is wilder, low water only means low enough.
The legend of the Stikine will never die and for those who seek fortune in this amazing place, make sure that your reasons are genuine. Thank you Conrad Fourney, Damon Miller and Daniel DeLaVergne for watching over all of us who continue to enter inside the walls of this great river.
View Stikine Grand Cayon (V+) in a larger map
The Stikine class of 2008
Jamie Phillip Wright
Mikkel St. Jean-Duncan
When the Stikine beckons the next in line, prepare for the trip of a lifetime and ride the dragon well.
September 22 -24, 2008. 1st Canadian team descent since Jody Schick-Ken Madsen in 1993.